Museum-Quality Mid-Century Wearable Art
 
A breathtaking example of mid-century wearable art, this extraordinary 1960s ceramic face brooch is signed by the American artist Melba of New Orleans (signed), whose sculptural ceramic jewels have become increasingly coveted among collectors of studio jewellery. 
Melba of New Orleans, an American ceramic artist active primarily in the 1950s–1960s, was known for her highly stylised hand-painted ceramic face brooches. Her pieces were often signed in gold script, exactly like the one on your brooch. They were produced in limited studio quantities and are now considered collectible mid-century wearable art.
 
Gracefully sculpted and exquisitely hand-painted, the brooch depicts an elegant feminine visage rendered in soft porcelain tones. Her serene expression, sculptural cheekbones and delicately arched eyes evoke the refined glamour of mid-century illustration.
The hair and flowing drapery surrounding the face are richly decorated with irregular gilded crackle patterns over turquoise enamel, creating a striking contrast against the pale ceramic complexion. Subtle gold accents highlight the eyelids while the lips are painted in a vivid crimson — a detail that brings the entire composition to life.
The form itself is fluid and sculptural, extending beyond a traditional oval silhouette into an organic shape that frames the face like a piece of miniature sculpture.
This is not merely jewellery — it is a small work of art meant to be worn.
Artist & Historical Context
Melba, a ceramic artist working from New Orleans during the 1950s and 1960s, produced a series of distinctive ceramic brooches that captured the spirit of the mid-century studio craft movement.
Her pieces were:
• Individually hand-painted
• Produced in small studio quantities
• Often signed in gold script on the reverse
• Celebrated for their expressive faces and sculptural forms
Today, her brooches are considered highly collectible examples of American mid-century artisan jewellery.
Craftsmanship
This brooch demonstrates remarkable craftsmanship:
• Hand-sculpted ceramic form
• Hand-painted turquoise and gold crackle decoration
• Gilded eyelids and detailed facial features
• Rich glazed finish with subtle vintage crazing
• Signed “Melba” on the reverse in gold script
• Secure brooch clasp
The dimensional modelling of the face gives the piece a sculptural quality rarely found in costume jewellery of the period.
Styling
This is a statement brooch that transforms even the simplest garment.
It can be worn:
• On a structured blazer or coat lapel
• Pinned to a silk scarf or shawl
• As a dramatic accent on a black dress or eveningwear
• On a collector’s display board as wearable art
Wherever it is worn, it becomes an immediate conversation piece.
Collector’s Appeal
Pieces by Melba are increasingly sought after by collectors of:
• Mid-century studio jewellery
• Artisan ceramic brooches
• 1960s wearable art
• Signed American designer costume jewellery
The sculptural face motif combined with the vivid enamel and gilded detailing makes this a particularly striking example.
Large signed examples of this size are not commonly encountered today, making this a notable addition to a serious vintage jewellery collection.
London Vintage
Custodians of Vintage Rarity ✨